Umklami waseMelika uRick Owens kuhlangeneezokwakhaamafomu anezithombe ze-Victorian zombukiso wakhe we-Fall/Winter 2023, owenzeka kumzila wezindiza wezimboni ongaphakathi kwe-Palais de Tokyo egcwele intuthu.
Umbukiso we-Luxor, oqanjwe ngegama ledolobha laseGibhithe lapho u-Owens echithe khona amaholide akhe asebusika, wenzeka phakathi nesonto leParis Fashion Week ePalais de Tokyo, isikhungo sobuciko saseParis.
Lo mbukiso, owenzeke endaweni yombukiso esitezi esiphansi sesikhungo sezobuciko, ubuwuhlelo lwensimbi olungamafidi amathathu ubude, olucishe lube yimitha elilodwa ububanzi olwalusebenza njengomzila wezindiza.
Ngaphambi kokuqala kombukiso, ingaphakathi lendawo yombukiso laligcwele intuthu elenga phansi eyayimboze phansi futhi yakhukhula unyawo lomgwaqo wezindiza wezimboni, izulazula phakathi kwezinsika zikakhonkolo eziveziwe nezindonga zePalais de Tokyo.
Imigqa eyodwa yezihlalo, nayo eyakhiwe kusukela efanayoenezimboboamaphaneli ensimbi asetshenziselwa ukwakha isigaba sesikhungo esiphakanyisiwe, uhlaka lomgwaqo wensimbi wezimboni futhi aklanyelwe abadlali nababukeli.
Ukusetshenziswa kwezinto zezimboni nezakhiwo kuhambisana nengaphakathi elibi nelinonya leSigodlo saseTokyo, esalungiswa ngo-2012 yisitudiyo sezakhiwo saseFrance i-Lacaton & Vassal.
Ama-silhouette ezakhiwo asebefana nomkhiqizo athathe ivayibhu ye-Victorian, u-Owens echaza, ebonisa ubuhlaza bokwahlulela ku-inthanethi.
"Iqoqo belimayelana nezinhlobo zezakhiwo ezilula ezinophawu lwe-pseudo-mysticism ye-70s kitsch," kusho u-Rick Owens kumanothi akhe embukisweni.
"Amahlombe acijile kanye nokhalo oluphakeme, oluwumngcingo oluphumela emaqakaleni kudala umfanekiso ocishe ufane we-Victorian obonisa ukuqina esikubonayo ekuhloleni kwethu kwamanje ku-inthanethi."
Isikhumba se-pyraloku esigaywe kabusha sidaywa saba mnyama ngenqubo yokushuka okunomthelela omncane futhi sisetshenziselwa ukumboza amabhantshi amakhulu kulo lonke iqoqo.
I-Arapaima, etholakala e-Amazon nase-Essequibo eNingizimu Melika, iyinhlanzi yamanzi ahlanzekile enkulu kunazo zonke emhlabeni futhi ingafinyelela amamitha amathathu ubude.U-Owens uthenga isikhumba kubantu bomdabu base-Brazil.
Umumo we-donut uguquke waba yingubo yokulala egqokekayo ehlotshiswe ngama-sequin amnyama, njengoba u-Owens ekubeka.I-Vogue ithi amajakhethi e-puffer "ayi-padding egqokekayo" amamodeli angakwazi ukungena kuwo.
"Lokhu ngizama ukunciphisa izingubo zibe yifomu yazo elula," kusho u-Owens etshela iVogue.“Lawa ngama-donuts angama-fluffy.Bafana ne-fogger yezingubo – iyisiphukuphuku, kodwa ilula kakhulu,” kusho u-Owens etshela iVogue.
Ijakhethi yebhomu lenziwe nge-polyamide egaywe kabusha, yaqinisekiswa ezindinganisweni zokugaywa kabusha komhlaba wonke, futhi idayiwe kusetshenziswa ubuchwepheshe obuvumela ukuthi izingulube zemvelo zisetshenziswe emiculweni yokwenziwa.Ijazi elimnyama lalidaywe ngoqalo, futhi ibhantshi eliluhlaza lalidaywe ngemfucumfucu yomnqumo.
Ngo-2018, u-Owens wabasa umlilo e-Tokyo Palace Dry Fountain for a Spring/Summer 2019 womenswear show egqugquzelwe izakhiwo ezimbili ezicatshangelwayo - i-Tower of Babel kanye nemodeli yomakhi wezakhiwo u-Vladimir Tatlin yezakhiwo zaseRussia.
Muva nje, u-Rick Owens uklame uhlelo lukasofa oyisiqephu esisodwa segalari ye-Carpenters Workshop Gallery, eyenziwe ngeplywood futhi embozwe ngengubo yoboya yamasosha aseFrance.
Incwadi yethu yezindaba edume kakhulu, phambilini eyayaziwa ngokuthi i-Dezeen Weekly.Njalo ngoLwesine sithumela ukukhethwa kokuphawula kwabafundi abahamba phambili nezindaba okukhulunywa ngazo kakhulu.Kanye nezibuyekezo zesevisi ye-Dezeen ngezikhathi ezithile nezindaba zakamuva.
Ishicilelwa njalo ngoLwesibili ngokukhethwa kwezindaba ezibaluleke kakhulu.Kanye nezibuyekezo zesevisi ye-Dezeen ngezikhathi ezithile nezindaba zakamuva.
Izibuyekezo zansuku zonke zemisebenzi yakamuva yedizayini nezakhiwo ezithunyelwe ku-Dezeen Jobs.Kanye nezindaba ezingavamile.
Izindaba mayelana nohlelo lwethu lwemiklomelo ye-Dezeen, okuhlanganisa nezinsuku zokugcina zokufaka izicelo nezimemezelo.Kanye nezibuyekezo zezikhathi.
Izindaba ezivela kukhathalogi yemicimbi ka-Dezeen yemicimbi yedizayini ehamba phambili emhlabeni jikelele.Kanye nezibuyekezo zezikhathi.
Sizosebenzisa kuphela ikheli lakho le-imeyili ukuze sikuthumelele incwadi yezindaba oyicelayo.Ngeke sabelane ngedatha yakho nanoma ubani omunye ngaphandle kwemvume yakho.Ungazikhipha ohlwini nganoma yisiphi isikhathi ngokuchofoza isixhumanisi sokuzikhipha ohlwini ngaphansi kwe-imeyili ngayinye noma ngokuthumela i-imeyili kokuthi [i-imeyili ivikelwe].
Okudume kakhulu kwethuiphephandaba, ngaphambili eyayaziwa ngokuthi i-Dezeen Weekly.Njalo ngoLwesine sithumela ukukhethwa kokuphawula kwabafundi abahamba phambili nezindaba okukhulunywa ngazo kakhulu.Kanye nezibuyekezo zesevisi ye-Dezeen ngezikhathi ezithile nezindaba zakamuva.
Ishicilelwa njalo ngoLwesibili ngokukhethwa kwezindaba ezibaluleke kakhulu.Kanye nezibuyekezo zesevisi ye-Dezeen ngezikhathi ezithile nezindaba zakamuva.
Izibuyekezo zansuku zonke zemisebenzi yakamuva yedizayini nezakhiwo ezithunyelwe ku-Dezeen Jobs.Kanye nezindaba ezingavamile.
Izindaba mayelana nohlelo lwethu lwemiklomelo ye-Dezeen, okuhlanganisa nezinsuku zokugcina zokufaka izicelo nezimemezelo.Kanye nezibuyekezo zezikhathi.
Izindaba ezivela kukhathalogi yemicimbi ka-Dezeen yemicimbi yedizayini ehamba phambili emhlabeni jikelele.Kanye nezibuyekezo zezikhathi.
Sizosebenzisa kuphela ikheli lakho le-imeyili ukuze sikuthumelele incwadi yezindaba oyicelayo.Ngeke sabelane ngedatha yakho nanoma ubani omunye ngaphandle kwemvume yakho.Ungazikhipha ohlwini nganoma yisiphi isikhathi ngokuchofoza isixhumanisi sokuzikhipha ohlwini ngaphansi kwe-imeyili ngayinye noma ngokuthumela i-imeyili kokuthi [i-imeyili ivikelwe].